Dancing Tango in Buenos Aires - No 1

Dancing Tango at "La Milonguita"

After years of experimenting around the world, there is a desire to return to Classic social Argentine Tango, because we know it's much more than "look at me".

Tango is a passion that was distilled into an experience far beyond a dance or a night out, in the crowded city dance halls of Buenos Aires. It is deeply rooted in a tradition and culture that must be experienced and absorbed to understand.

Here is the first of two posts from Argentina, on the culture and tradition that is still upheld by those who know, and where to find it.

Our Suggestions If You Want to Dance Tango at Cachirulo…

Marcelo Fornaso / Myriam Pincer Traditional Tango

After being a regular at this milonga for some years, I feel ready to share a few personal observations and suggestions if you’re thinking about trying to dance at Milonga Cachirulo, organised by Héctor Pellozo and Norma Zugasti.

Cachirulo is very special. It’s one of the best traditional milongas in Buenos Aires (the best, for some of us), and since Buenos Aires is the Mecca of tango, that makes Cachirulo one of the best traditional milongas in the world.

It currently takes place at El Beso, after moving through other venues over the years.

Things to keep in mind:

The organiser… Yes, it’s true: Héctor is grumpy, cranky, stubborn, sometimes not friendly at all, and he runs the milonga exactly as he wants. But he’s also a hard worker, and both he and Norma have huge hearts. I’ve personally seen him help those in need, more than once and in different ways. (And he’s the only organiser I know who’s paid for barbecues for dozens of friends — I’m honoured to be among them.)

Norma is his inseparable partner. Sometimes they argue, and she scolds him and gives him instructions, but they always take loving care of each other.

Héctor has been accused of being misogynistic, homophobic, authoritarian, and worse. I can personally attest that he is not. He has a very clear and personal vision of how he wants his milonga to be and upholds some of the old tango traditions, including:

- Only cabeceo (the traditional eye contact invitation to dance).[More on this below - Ed]

- No sneakers.

- Floor-level dancing. [No voleos, ganchos and kicks of any kind. Keep your feet on the floor - ED]

Cabeceo, because it’s the most respectful and considerate way to invite someone to dance. [See also below-Ed]

No sneakers, because a formal look is important (and if you're a traditional milonguero, you know that shoes matter — any kind, but shoes).

Floor-level dancing, in milonguero style, without high voleos or kicks, preferably in close embrace. Social tango, so we can all dance comfortably and safely.

If you want to challenge these principles, Héctor won’t hesitate to return your entrance fee and ask you to leave — with varying degrees of politeness (or lack thereof), depending on the situation. This happens fairly often, but it’s his way of taking care of his milonga and his dancers. So don’t argue with him. It’s his milonga and it works well! If you don’t like it, why get upset? There are plenty of other great milongas out there, more relaxed and less formal.

How do we dance?

Beyond the level of dancing —which is always high— what sets Cachirulo apart is the proportion of good dancers among the total number of attendees.

Sure, every milonga has a few good dancers. But at Cachirulo, the good ones are usually the majority. (I consider myself the worst of all the good dancers…)

In my personal stats: in other milongas, if there are 100 people, with around 50 women, sometimes only 5 or 6 are truly good dancers. At Cachirulo, if there are 50 women in the room, 40 of them might be solid milongueras.

My theory is that this is because people go to Cachirulo TO DANCE, not to socialise. I believe that’s one of the main reasons behind Cachi’s success and longevity — over 20 years now.

Seating is arranged so that two sides of the dance floor are for women and two for men, facing each other — everyone looking for the best partner for each tanda.

Groups of friends, couples, and observers usually sit at the tables in the back. At this milonga, the focus is on the dancers, not the social groups.

[Cabaceo/mirada invitation is affected around the world as the thing to do. However it only works if the room is set up as described above, the room is well lit, and people know what to expect. We prefer to sit together in the "couples" area. There, an experienced dancer may invite Cheryl to dance (after he has observed us dancing). This invitation is the same as we would do here. He will approach our table, politely glance at me, and invite her to dance - Ed]

You’ll always find fun social groups in other milongas, and social connection is one of tango’s blessings — but at Cachi, people talk less and dance more.

The milonga is fairly orderly, the floor flows well, and there are no major distractions or background noise.

Cabeceo is a must at Cachi.

It’s the only accepted way to invite someone to dance. (Doing otherwise can get you kicked out.) You’re not allowed to walk up to a woman’s table or get too close — and absolutely no touching to get her attention. Héctor is strict about this because he sees it as a way to protect the women. If a woman doesn’t want to accept a cabeceo, she simply looks away. She doesn’t have to reject anyone directly or deal with unwanted persistence.

[It works similarly here. If a lady looks away, or is deep in conversation, it takes a bold, or ignorant, guy to confront her (unless they are good friends) - ED]

At Cachirulo, some of the best social dancers in Buenos Aires (and the world) come to dance.

Sometimes, newcomers or foreigners with only a few tango classes or limited dancing skills get offended because no one invites them to dance — or accepts their cabeceo.

You have to be humble. Many of the regular dancers at Cachirulo have invested years of their lives in classes, practice, and milongas — and thousands of dollars in tickets, private and group lessons, transport, clothing, and drinks.

These dancers (both women and men) are focused on finding the best possible tanda with the best possible partner.

They don’t usually dance with just anyone they haven’t seen on the floor before.

However, there’s always a chance. We’re often looking for new partners. If you dance well, look good, and smile, you’ll likely get to dance some lovely tandas.

Yes, physical beauty helps — it’s inevitable — but in Cachirulo, more than in other milongas, being a good dancer is what really counts.

So:

• - If you don’t get to dance at Cachirulo, don’t get frustrated. Keep trying. Sometimes it helps to ask a friend to dance with you so people see you on the floor.

• - If your dance level isn’t at least good intermediate or better, it might be best to take more classes and come back later.

• - Don’t jump up from your seat (ladies). Always wait for your partner to approach you, stand in front of you, or extend their hand.

• - Same-sex dance couples aren’t allowed. A vestige of the past, and a rule that’s falling out of use — but Héctor keeps it as part of his definition of “traditional.”

• - Dancing happens in three concentric rounds. Sometimes four, if it’s crowded.

• - Don’t stop moving while dancing. Keep circulating around the floor.

• - The more polite dancers (sometimes) ask for permission before entering the dancing floor.

• - Always apologise if you touch or bump into another couple.

• - Always walk the woman back to her table after a tanda and thank her.

• - Always smile — especially women sitting at the tables. And never complain. We dance to have a good time.

- There’s no reason to feel tense, nervous, or judged. It’s just a dance.

This writing is only about our personal experience. We don’t claim to be right, and welcome different opinions.